Norway is a land of mythical heroes and weeks of perpetual day. While one can’t see the midnight sun or run into Norse legends in Trondheim, the oldest large city in Scandinavia is worth a look. The metropolis blends young and old, history and excitement; it is one of the best places to get a true taste of where Norway has been and where it is headed.

In 1997, Trondheim celebrated its 1000th birthday. It was long a center of trade for northern Europe. Aged wooden mansions are scattered around the city. These serve as reminders of the city’s past economic clout. There are many smaller aged structures, but the most impressive is a building known in Norwegian as Stiftsgaarden. It was once used by the King of Norway as a summer residence. The ancient island fortress of Munkholmen, which is accessible only by boat, offers another glimpse into just how long Trondheim has been a inhabited.

But Trondheim is not only a place of history. The University of Trondheim, one of Norway’s largest, adds a youthful flavor to the town’s activities. A hip and happening nightlife can be found in the center of the city. High drink prices and early closing times mean that you’ll probably need to befriend some locals so that you can take part in a kind of progressive party that is unique to Norway. The night begins with what locals call “Vorspiel,” a pre-party. A trip to the local watering hole is followed by a return to someone’s house for “Nachspiel,” the after party. Trondheim’s residents are often very friendly and can speak good English, so don’t worry about making acquaintances.

Trondheim is a city of both past and present. It is one of the best places to experience all that Norway has to offer.