Archive for March, 2008

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Old and New Budapest

old-and-new-in-budapest.jpg

Budapest is, more or less, a twin city. The name refers to Buda, the older section, on the west banks of the Danube River and Pest, the center of business and government on the east side of the famed European river.

Sightseers will probably find Castle Hill, the oldest part of Buda to be the best place to start. As its name suggests, the centerpiece of this district is a castle (known as the royal palace) on a hill. The baroque-style building houses some of Eastern Europe’s finest and most valued artworks in its National Gallery wing. The art pales in comparison to the views form the palace grounds and other lookout points on the hill. The mighty Danube and the storied city on its banks provide plenty of postcard-pretty views.

Budapest is a city of classical music. The State Opera House hosts some of Europe’s best voices while concert halls featuring classical music are as numerous as jazz bars are in New Orleans.

Of course, this being Europe, there are plenty of coffee houses (conveniently, for Anglophones, known as “kavehus”). Hungary has some of the best coffee in Europe and the lively, social atmosphere is a reason to visit these beaneries in and of itself.

Despite its historic feel and penchant for classical music, Budapest has a hip edge to it. Downtown clubs, on the Pest side of the river, are the place to be, see, and be seen. There are some dance clubs and live music venues, but, for the most part, people seem to head out at night to simply hang out and enjoy a few drinks. The Buda side of the Danube has fewer clubs, but also boasts a more laid back feel.

Budapest is a refreshing mix of old and new. It is proud of its past but not afraid of the future.

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Far Out Taos

Taos, New Mexico is far out.  I mean that both geographically and culturally.  The town sits in the midst of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains in southern New Mexico.  It is two hours from Sante Fe by road.  The arid and rugged mountains make it seem even further displaced.  However, reaching Taos by car is easy and one of the routes from Sante Fe follows the famed and scenic Rio Grande. 

So why visit this out-of-the-way place?  Taos has long been a destination for art lovers.  The popularity of Southwestern art throughout the United States began here. 

The central plaza of Taos is a good place to enjoy the ambiance of the town.  Nearby houses that once belonged to the founders of the town’s art scene have been turned into galleries and small museums that are open to the public. 

Perhaps the most famous craftsmanship to be found in Taos does not come from these galleries, but from the nearby galleries run by members of the native Pueblo tribe.  Handcrafted items including pottery, necklaces, beadwork, and any other craft you might be able to think of, is available for sale.  It’s also interesting to see how much the work of the Pueblo influenced other local artists.

The culture of Taos is a mixture of Mexican culture, Pueblo traditions, and new influences from further north in the US.  All these cultural forces make it a unique style of arts and crafts, and an inviting atmosphere.  

 Fechin house: Former artist residence that is now an art gallery.