Phnom Penh is coming into its own. For years, the dusty streets saw few visitors outside adventurous backpacker types trying to get off the beaten path. Tourists interested in Cambodia usually headed up to Angkor Wat, the ruins of a huge temple complex built hundreds of years ago. While Angkor is one of the most interesting and popular destinations in Southeast Asia, Phnom Penh also has unique attractions. As the infrastructure becomes better and better, it’s getting much easier to get in and around Cambodia’s largest city.

Here are a few things visitors can look forward to in Phnom Penh:

Sisowath Quay, on the banks of the Mekong, is an attractive boulevard. Locals, expats, and tourists find the area pleasant. A walkway along the river provides a great venue for evening strolls while the bars, restaurants, and cafes across the street are some of the best in the city.

Sisowath Quay begins near The Royal Palace. The Palace somehow managed to survive Cambodia’s turbulent and bloody conflicts and is now one of the finest examples of Khmer architecture. Inside the Palace grounds are two temples.

Wat Phnom, on a hill overlooking the city, is another temple worth visiting. The view from its grounds is as impressive as the structure itself.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum is a reminder of the violent conflict that left Cambodia in shambles. This is not a place for the squeamish, but important for those who want to see into the brutal reign of the Khmer Rouge.

The Mekong River is wide and scenic as it runs past Phnom Penh. It is possible to take a cruise on the river, perhaps visiting a village downstream or simply having a meal while afloat.

Phnom Penh is still a cit that lies off the beaten path. It is so charming and full of attractions that it won’t remain so for very long.