Budapest is, more or less, a twin city. The name refers to Buda, the older section, on the west banks of the Danube River and Pest, the center of business and government on the east side of the famed European river.

Sightseers will probably find Castle Hill, the oldest part of Buda to be the best place to start. As its name suggests, the centerpiece of this district is a castle (known as the royal palace) on a hill. The baroque-style building houses some of Eastern Europe’s finest and most valued artworks in its National Gallery wing. The art pales in comparison to the views form the palace grounds and other lookout points on the hill. The mighty Danube and the storied city on its banks provide plenty of postcard-pretty views.

Budapest is a city of classical music. The State Opera House hosts some of Europe’s best voices while concert halls featuring classical music are as numerous as jazz bars are in New Orleans.

Of course, this being Europe, there are plenty of coffee houses (conveniently, for Anglophones, known as “kavehus”). Hungary has some of the best coffee in Europe and the lively, social atmosphere is a reason to visit these beaneries in and of itself.

Despite its historic feel and penchant for classical music, Budapest has a hip edge to it. Downtown clubs, on the Pest side of the river, are the place to be, see, and be seen. There are some dance clubs and live music venues, but, for the most part, people seem to head out at night to simply hang out and enjoy a few drinks. The Buda side of the Danube has fewer clubs, but also boasts a more laid back feel.

Budapest is a refreshing mix of old and new. It is proud of its past but not afraid of the future.